by Crystal Schlueter
Barbecue season is officially here, and there is one side dish that must be on every picnic table; potato salad. I make many different versions, but my smoked salmon potato salad is my most requested. For this salad, I like using peel-on red potatoes for a colorful contrast with the salmon. When using unexpected ingredients in a well-known dish, I like to cut everything into bigger chunks than normal so people can identify what they’re eating.
Typically when I make this recipe, I use lots of fresh dill or fennel fronds for an herbaceous kick. The chives in my garden are so beautiful right now, so I decided to go with those. Chive blossoms have a subtle chive flavor and can be plucked from the flower heads into individual florets. Discard the center of the flower and don’t use the tough stems. If you don’t have access to chive flowers, just use a few more chives or a combination of other herbs.
In place of the traditional raw celery, I went with mini cucumbers. These cucumbers have crispy skin and tiny seeds, which make them less watery than larger varieties. If you can’t find mini cucumbers, you can use about half of an English cucumber instead. Regular cucumbers can be used as well, but due to their wax-coated, tough skin, I recommend peeling them prior to using and scooping out the seeds so your salad does not become watered down.
The cream in this salad is a secret family ingredient, which has been added to potato salad since my great-grandmother’s days as a farmhouse cook. The term salad is used loosely here, so use real mayonnaise for extra richness. Don’t be afraid of the horseradish. I add just enough to give a hint of flavor, but not enough to clear your sinuses. I like using stone ground mustard because I like the crunchy pop of the seeds, but you can use any variety you prefer.
I also usually add a generous spoonful of brined capers. I did not bring a shopping list when I went to the grocery store so, naturally, I forgot something. Because this potato salad is on the richer side, it needs an acidic component. As much as I love regular pickles, I decided to make quick pickled red onions, and I am now glad I forgot the capers. The pink hue looks lovely with the other colors and the subtle fennel-like flavor of tarragon is a natural pairing with fish.
Smoked Salmon Potato Salad
Ingredients:
Tarragon Pickled Onions:
1/2 cup tarragon vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 medium red onion, cut into 1 inch long strips
Potato Salad:
3 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed and cubed into large bite sized pieces
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup real mayonnaise
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon cream-style horseradish
2 teaspoons stone ground mustard
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
8 ounces smoked salmon, flaked
4 large boiled eggs, quartered and cut into thirds
2 mini cucumbers, diced
2 heaping tablespoons minced fresh chives mixed with chive florets, plus extra for garnishing
Instructions:
Tarragon Pickled Onions:
In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Remove from heat and add the onion. Let cool to room temperature, then pour into a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place a jar or saucer on top to keep the onion submerged. Chill for 2 hours or overnight.
Potato Salad:
In a large pot of salted cold water, add potatoes. Bring the potatoes to boil over medium high heat and cook until tender. Drain well and place potatoes onto a rimmed baking sheet. This will allow the potatoes to cool quickly and the excess moisture to evaporate. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, horseradish, mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the cooled potatoes, salmon, eggs, cucumber, and chives/florets. Drain the brine from the red onion (the brine can be reserved to make a great berry vinaigrette base) and pat dry with paper towels. Reserve a few for garnishing, then add the rest to the bowl. Toss thoroughly and taste for seasonings, adding more salt and pepper if necessary. Cover and chill for two hours, then stir again just before serving. Garnish with additional chives, chive flowers, and reserved pickled onion.
Yield: 12 servings.
