My friend Carol, whom I’ve mentioned in the column before, was kind enough to share her family’s cookbook with me. Aside from a selection of German recipes, the book contained bits of family history, stories, and memories from life on a farm. The potato pancake recipe caught my eye, and Carol wrote that the pancakes “were as big as the cast-iron skillet they slid out of.” She recalls eating these pancakes with homemade smoked sausage and pickled beets while growing up, but they were large enough to be a meal on their own.
This was the first recipe of its kind that I’ve seen without onion. I never used to like potato pancakes because of the onion, so I was excited to try this recipe. While the exact measurements were not given, I guesstimated the amounts and ended up with a recipe I find to be truly exceptional. The pancakes are a little savory and a little sweet, with crispy edges and a soft center. After my first batch, I decided to add a bit of nutmeg. The spice pairs well with the sour cream and applesauce I like to serve them with.
Carol’s German
Potato Pancakes
Ingredients:
1 large egg
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper
1 pinch ground nutmeg, optional
2-3 medium russet or white-skinned potatoes such as Kennebec (unpeeled)
Lard or oil for frying
Sour cream and applesauce for serving
Instructions:
In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg, flour, sugar, salt, pepper, and nutmeg (if using) to form a batter. Place a box cutter over a rimmed cutting board or cookie sheet. Grate the potatoes using the large hole side. Meanwhile, preheat a thin layer of lard or oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Squeeze out the excess moisture from the potatoes. Measure out one packed cup of drained potatoes, then add to the batter. Stir until combined. Fry half of the batter at a time, spreading thinly with a spatula into a circle. Fry until golden brown on both sides, adding more fat and lowering the heat as needed. Serve with sour cream and applesauce, if desired.
Yield: 2 large pancakes.
Notes:
I like to make just two pancakes at a time, because the grated potatoes tend to turn the pancakes gray if they sit too long before cooking. This does not affect the flavor, so feel free to make a bigger batch if desired. For homemade applesauce, peel, core, and roughly chop three Granny Smith apples that have gone a bit soft. Pulse them in a food processor with ½ cup water until the apples are finely chopped. Add the mixture to a saucepan over medium heat and stir in 1/4 cup granulated sugar and one tablespoon cider vinegar. Cook the mixture for 10-15 minutes, or until tender but not overly soft. I like to make applesauce a bit chunky so it feels more homemade.
