Last summer, I went to the annual Old Thyme Slavic Picnic in Chisholm. The event was pretty packed, but I managed to find a seat. A woman who was seated across the table smiled at me, and we got to talking. The woman, named Doty, said she was of Czech descent. I mentioned that I was mostly of Scandinavian descent, and she told me her husband was also of Scandinavian descent. She said how she tried making lefse shortly after getting married, and thought it was made with rye flour, so it was tough enough to shingle a roof.
Doty then introduced me to her daughter, who was seated next to me. Her daughter then told me how Doty, age 92, had just buried her husband two days prior. I immediately shared my sympathies and praised her for her upbeat spirit. She said she came to the event every year, and her husband would have wanted her to go, as he had loved attending the event. She said her husband loved Slavic food, and she was the only non-Scandinavian person she knew who loved lutefisk.
After the conversation turned back to food, Doty said, “Have you ever noticed how people’s faces light up when you talk about food?” I smiled and said, “Yes, I have.” Doty then told me about a soup called Vomacka (pronounced Vo-mahchka), which is a creamy soup with green beans, yellow wax beans, and an assortment of other vegetables in a creamy, tangy broth. She said it is best served with fried eggs. It can be served during Lent, if eggs and dairy are allowed. I was intrigued by the soup, so I went home and made it.
Vomacka sounded like a pretty simple dish, but I was surprised at how flavorful and beautiful it was. Creamy soups are usually quite heavy, but this one is somehow light. The pickling spice and hint of vinegar wake up the other flavors and add something special. The colorful vegetables give a stark contrast against the white soup, and make each bite a little different than the last. While my favorite part about the picnic was meeting Doty, learning about this soup was a close second.
Vomacka
Ingredients:
5 tablespoons butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
2 medium stalks of celery, diced
2 cloves minced garlic
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 tablespoon pickling spice wrapped and tied in cheesecloth or placed in a tea ball
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen green beans, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups fresh or canned yellow wax beans, cut into 2-inch pieces
4 cups diced Yukon gold potatoes
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup sour cream
1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
Salt, if needed
Fresh or dried dill for garnishing
Instructions:
In a stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the butter over medium heat. Once melted, add the onion, carrots, and celery. Sauté the vegetables for 6-7 minutes or until almost tender. Add the garlic and cook for one minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the flour. Cook for another minute. Slowly whisk in the broth until combined. Add the contained pickling spice, marjoram, pepper, beans, and potatoes. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook for 25-30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Turn off the heat and remove the pickling spice. Whisk in the heavy cream, then whisk in the sour cream and vinegar. Taste for seasonings and add salt and extra white pepper, if necessary. Ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh dill or a sprinkle of dried dill.
Yield: 8 servings.
Notes:
Fresh green and yellow beans are not always available. Frozen green beans work fine as a substitute for fresh. When yellow wax beans are not in season, canned beans are the only other option. If using canned beans, I recommend putting them in towards the end of cooking.
